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June 2012

June saw us leave Lake Anneen and arrive in Meekatharra, where a short drive out of town is a place called Peace PArk. This is a large area of granite boulders and is where the town used to go to recreate. Formally called The Granites, its name was changed to Peace Park when the town went there to celebrate the end of World War II. A very quiet place good for some photography and of course a camp.

Leaving Meeka we were heading to a spot called Bilyuin Pool. The GPS was saying the road was there but my eyes disagreed, so we drove on a little and came across a track to a station. Well, I figured that the road had been relocated so we took the track.

All was fine until we went past the station turn off and then the road got rougher and narrower, so narrow in fact that at times I could not even see it! Slowly but surely we moved along and then came to the road we would have found had we continued on the highway for another kilometer! Oh well.

We arrived at the driver crossing and took a track to where we found a number of other campers and a small watercourse. Thinking this was it we set up camp and as usual Joanne went for a walk and then she was back with those words "I think you will want to move". She told me of another spot and the fact that we had taken the track of the road too early. A quick pack up, trip back to the main road we took a new track and came to one of the best campsites we have ever had. We set up camp and settled in.

The next morning the campers up a little from us were packing up and after they left we decided to take over their campsite, complete with a nice grassed area for us to sit around on.

Dinner by the fire and relaxing with a red to enjoy the sunset

Reflections on Bilyuin Pool

A mob of 8 Emu's came down to the water to drink one evening and each day was filled with bird watching and photography.

After a wonderful few days at he pool we awoke to a cloudy day and so decided to move on. We had enjoyed Bilyuin but it was time to leave so with grey skies we headed off towards the Gascoyne River and the campsites there. We arrived at the South branch to find the campsite we had last year and then decided to move on to the Middle Branch to see what it would be like. On arrival we used the old causeway rather than the highway bridge to cross the river before finding a good spot down river. It was nothing flash compared to Bilyuin, but it would do us and 5 other campers for the night.

Heading towards Newman and not wanting to pay the ridiculous prices in the caravan park we stopped in a gravel pit some 20 kilometers South of town. The camp was nothing flash but we were joined by one other camper and then 5 oversize loads who are not allowed to travel at night. The trucks were carrying buildings for the mining industry and very, very large trucks and diggers. The truckies and their pilot vehicles spent the evening sitting around their fires, drinking and talking before everyone went to bed for a quiet night.

We dropped into Newman the next day for fuel, food, water, to dump the toilet before we headed off down the Newman to Marble Bar road for a look. The road continues on to Nullagine and then Marble Bar but noting the fact that the mining traffic is all heading up there, we decided not to continue of the dirt, so once we got to Roy Hill before heading back a bit to a nice gravel pit we had seen along the way for a pleasant and quiet nights camp. The next day it was back into Newman before heading on to the Mt Robinson Rest Area, some 100 kilometers North of Newman.

Having traveled through this area on numerous occasions during visits to sites and employees I have always enjoyed the scenery and the colours of the area so it was not hard to really enjoy it this time as we took a more leisurely pace and the ability to stop to take it all in, and we were not alone in that. There were3 other campers in the rest area last night.

But as good as this rest area is, we had to move on to one that is better - the Albert Tongalini Rest Area at East Munjina Gorge, but not before we took a hike up Mt Bruce, which is the second highest peak in Western Australia and is in the Karajini National Park.

Taking the main road that cuts through the National Park we arrived at the base of Mt Bruce and after preparing for a few hours away we began our trek. The sign informs that the walk is a 9 kilometer round trip.

The walk began with a trip across the top of the ridge and then after a very steep climb up to a ledge we were glad of the chain that ensured we had something to hold as we traversed the gaps and a narrow ledge. Then it was up a chimney like area before we came out the other side and into the full force of the very strong wind that was blowing.

We stopped to take a break about 2/3 of the way up and to see if we could find the track as it climbed higher, but with the wind the way it was we decided that we had climbed enough and the last little bit to the summit would have to wait for another day. A group of younger people came a long and took some precarious steps up, over and around the bit we couldn't figure out and after seeing them struggle we were happy with our decision.

We managed to get back down to AJ and just as we did the rain started. So, we had something to eat and of course a coffee before enjoying a nice hot shower and heading off. We stopped for the night at a rest area just out of Tom Price and AJ got a good shower from the rain as it fell overnight.

The next day was at trip into Tom Price for water and a few tasks before we headed off back through Karajini Park and onto the Albert Tongalini Rest Area at East Munjina Gorge for a few days, and where we managed to get the same campsite as last time we were here.

Such a beautiful spot and stunning scenery begs for exploration, so we took a walk from our campsite down towards the gorge itself and then up along the ridge opposite. As we got down towards the gorge we found a waterfall about 60 metre's in height, unfortunately there was no water but it would have been spectacular if it was flowing. The hike up along the ridge was great and provided not only some good views but some physical challenges as well.

From Munjina we drove through the gorge and onto Auski Roadhouse where we stayed on our Australian cycle tour. The place is still very busy and the caravan park out the back full of miners. We then followed he Hammersly Range towards Wittenoom and beyond until the bitumen ran out before we turned around and returned to the highway. Pushing on we passed through the Chichester Range looking for the spot where we took the photo below which we use on our where2pedalto.com website, but we couldn't find it.

We eventually arrived at Bea Bea Creek Gorge and considered camping there. The rubbish bins were overflowing and there was toilet paper, food packages and babies nappies all around the place, so it was out with the long handled tongs to conduct an Emu bob to pick it all up and place it in the bin. We decided not to stay there and so moved on until we came to a spot near the bridge at the Bea Bea Creek Middle Creek. Nice rocks to park on and beautiful white trunked gums to look at convinced us to camp there. A walk along the dry riverbed took us to a small waterhole where the bird life was quite busy enjoying the water. The afternoon and evening spent with photography.

It was a peaceful night until around 4 am when we were woken by some very, very large oversized rigs who had stopped opposite our spot on the highway. The highway had been closed to all traffic each night because of the movements during the week and for good reason. The rigs are too big to get off the road so they just stop and take a break in the middle of the highway.

Moving on we decided to stop at Yule River for a look and that led to us deciding to camp. We took a walk across the bridge and back across the dry riverbed. On the way back we picked a nice campsite just up a little rise and where someone else had camped, and that was when the fun began.

To get to the spot I had to thread the needle between two trees, so following the track I did so, but in dodging the trees I managed to get off the track and the back wheels sank like a block of concrete into the soft river sand. What followed was quite a few hours of digging the motorhome out, reversing back off the ramps and onto wood a little bit at a time and just as we were starting to make some progress it stopped.

We were in sight of the highway and before long an aboriginal man in a 4 wheel drive came to the rescue, but only with rope to use it was a tall ask. He did manage to move us a little and just as we had figured we needed another plan I heard voices over the two-way. The voices came from two of the pilot vehicles escorting the oversized rigs as they went back to get another load. I called them back and they gladly assisted with a snatch em strap and a try at pulling us out backwards. Eventually the aboriginal man had some luck as he pulled us clear and onto solid ground, just near where we were going to camp. We turned around, re-connected and gunned it through the sand back to even more solid ground. The guys left with our thanks and we settled into a camp for the night, it had been quite a day.

So with all of that excitement behind us we left the next morning and drove onto Indee Station outside of Port Hedland. We had been fortunate enough to have had water left by Betty in the culvert when we rode through the area in 2003, and had been allowed by Colin to camp inside the gate that night. So in thanks we drove the 9 kilometers in from the road and stayed at Indee as paying guests. Both Colin and Betty remembered us and it was nice to finally see the station.

The caravan park area is basic but comfortable, the showers clean and the washing machine a gold coin donation for the RFDS. There were plenty of guests, some preferring to stay there because it was over half the price cheaper than the parks in Port Hedland, and twice as nice. Happy Hour is held in the homestead with BYO drinks but nibbles supplied by Betty. We ended up staying two nights as we were having so much fun. The second night Happy Hour went ahead and we were even invited to enjoy the band that had been provided for the BHP party that night. What was good was the fact that despite their having a private party, the campers were not forgotten and were included.

Indee Station Campground from halfway up Telephone Hill

 

Leaving Indee Station we headed into Port Hedland for shopping, fuel and water before heading out of town and onto a bush camp near the junction of the highway and the road down to Marble Bar.

With one other camper in it was a quiet peaceful night in a very pleasant location and the next day we headed South towards Marble Bar, home of Australia's hottest town. The road down to Marble Bar is nothing to write home about and we stopped at the Des Streckfuss Rest Area, cleaning up the rubbish that was all over the place before we decided not to camp and moved on, and what a good choice that was.We tried another camp by the name of Pear Creek, and almost stayed there but again moved on, eventually coming to Dooleena Gorge.

As we pulled into the Gorge track a Policeman was driving out and we wondered what the site would be like. A short 1.5 km rough track saw us arrive at one of the nicest sites we have been to.

Dinner by the fire and stars and the Milky Way at Dooleena Gorge

Moving on from Dooleena Gorge we found our way into the town of Marble Bar where we cooked breakfast in the park, dumping the toilet and enjoying a shower before heading out to the Marble Bar itself. The bar is actually a large deposit of Jasper but when it is wet it looks like Marble, hence the name.

The Marble Bar itself

Jasper in its natural dry state, but add water and this is what you get.

We stopped in town for lunch and parked near the pool. Now the outside temperature was 33 deg C and yet the pool was closed for the season. The official response when Joanne asked why was "well it is winter you know!" and yet, Marble Bar is known as the hottest town in the country and all because it had a high temperature for an extended number of days. And just to keep an eye on things there is a large digital temperature gauge in the middle of town.

Leaving town we drove back to the Des Streckfuss Rest area where we snagged a spot next to the river and settled in for the night, leaving the next morning for a look at the De-Gray River Rest Area, which on arrival was packed to the rafters (we estimate about 60 of them) with campers. We drove around for a look and then headed off leaving them to camp in peace.

Heading towards Pardoo Roadhouse we stopped just short and camped at Afghan Well where we had camped when we cycled around Australia. We were the only campers and so had the small area to ourselves. Afghan Well is so named because the Afghan Cameleers camped where they found water and often planted date palm seeds so that they grew where they camped.

Moving on the next day we stopped at Pardoo Roadhouse, topped up with fuel and took advantage of the gold coin donation (to the RFDS) scheme for water. We filled our tanks and drove on to Sandfire Roadhouse which we had also stayed at when we cycled through. The roadhouse was slightly different as it had been re-arranged by a cyclone since we rode through.

We were heading for the Stanley Rest Area, another place we had camped when cycling through the area, and as chance would have it, we were able to camp next to where we did last time. The rest area was once a road maintenance depot and has been upgraded with nice gravel, new toilets and a dump point being installed since we were there last. We met two men inspecting the work and who had worked there when it was a depot, and thanked them for their efforts, which they appreciated.

As the day wore on the place began to fill up and by nightfall the place was packed.

Our campsite next to the shelter we camped under when we cycled around Australia and startrails over the top that night.

After enjoying two nights at Stanley RA we broke camp and headed off to explore some more, checking out the Goldwire RA before stopping at SHamrock Gardens to buy some avocado. We had stopped there when we rode and had picked up water from them which was really pleasant. Moving on we eventually decided to check out the Barn Hill Station Stay.

Turning into the track my heart sank as I realised that the track was in fact sand! So with memories of Yule River and sitting on the edge of my seat we edged our way along, relief finally coming when a huge Winnebago Alpine towing a trailer came the other way because I figured that if he could make it I certainly could.

9 kilometers later we arrived at a small oasis. There was the caravan park nestled under the trees with power to the sites and even a bowling green, but the sites were nowhere near the water, so we opted for an unpowered site where we could see the ocean. It was a case of pick your own so we eventually settled on a nice site next to another motorhome, connected the water and checked the place out.

A short 2 minute walk to the edge of the cliff saw us following the track down onto the beach, and a beautiful beach at that. Men fishing, girls topping up their tan and even a boat up on the sand.

The View from our front door and the beach itself.

Interestingly Barn Hill Station is not a station, Barn Hill is a large rock formation that looks like a barn and it is on the Tharlgoo Station, but add Barn Hill and Station Stay together and you get Barn Hill Station. The Barn has a cairn on the top from an early explorer's passing by.

So after a couple of pleasant nights at Barn Hill we moved on towards Broome where we gave AJ a bath, di some shopping, got some fuel and drove out of town to a gravel pit where we enjoyed a pleasantly quiet night. The next day we drove onto the Nillibubacca Rest Area where we camped in virtually the same spot as when we cycled through. The place filled up with around 25 campers. We spent time talking with a few including a couple who had been on the road for 8 years! We even got an invite from a couple who reside in Longreach.

Moving on towards Derby we stopped at the Fitzroy River at Willare. Taking the track in we were only able to go so far and then had to walk to where we had camped when we cycled through. The place had changed little and was still a beautiful place to stop. We met a young bloke in a Mazda E3500 bus who had managed to get his bus into a good spot.

Ever conscious of the camping possibilities we found a good spot as we approached Derby, and that allowed us to go into town, to do some shopping, get some fuel and to go down to the wharf to enjoy the sunset before heading back out of town. Here's the view.

Leaving Derby we found our way back to our campsite and not long after we had got there another camper came in, so there was two of us enjoying a free night. The next ay we moved on to the Boab tree rest area which we shared with half a dozen others. Leaving in the morning we located the Ellendale Pool camp which is on a property and is also a bird watching site. Not long after we got there Patrick and Val who we camped with at the Boab Rest Area turned up, so we enjoyed the site and their company for two nights before we moved on again.

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